When I was just a kid (no, not so long ago) my parents took my brother and me to the south of France. As my dad is a real Salvador Dalí fan, we did a day trip to the Dalí Museum in Figueres, Spain. Only, we didn't.
When we got there it was blistering hot and there was such a long line of visitors that my parents didn't want to wait out in the heat with us. It was a time when purchasing tickets online in advance still sounded futuristic.
A second attempt at visiting the Dalí Museum, Spain
So when my ex and I planned our own trip to the south of France I knew I had to save a day to head down to the Costa Brava in Spain for a bit of Dalí. We got to the Dalí museum 20 minutes before opening time and although there was already a line, it only took us five minutes to get in once the museum opened.
I must say I was immediately a bit disorientated. Arrows and numbers show you which direction to follow to visit all the rooms in the museum, but you start in a hallway around the round center square and of course, we didn't see the arrows, so we started in the wrong direction.
The museum is absolutely crammed full of art. There are around 1,500 works to discover, from sculptures to paintings to photography to holograms.
While it may at times feel a little chaotic and confusing, you can’t help but wonder if this was part of Dalí’s plan all along. Throughout the history of his life, he never offered an explanation for his crazy imagination, and walking around this museum, through the higgledy-piggledy labyrinth of paintings, drawings and installations feels a bit like having a personal tour around the artist’s wild and creative mind itself.
While most of the artist’s works at the museum were displayed in a clear way, a few were put in places where the lighting wasn't ideal. For instance, when you're in the upper levels of the museum most paintings are displayed in the hallway, but some are hanging in small niches which are really dark, sometimes making it hard for visitors to view the art.
Background info
It all started back in the 60s when the mayor of Figueres in Spain asked Dalí to donate a piece of art to the town’s museum – him being one of the town’s most prestigious artists. The artist replied that he wouldn’t just give one piece, but an entire building. He wanted the museum to be built on the ruins of the former municipal theater of Figueres, with the space where the audience used to stand becoming an open-air courtyard. In 1974 this idea came to fruition; he created the Dalí Museum, Spain.
This Spanish building is part of a wider collection of work in several museums collectively called the Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí that Dalí curated and managed with his muse, business partner and wife, Gala. Besides being an artist himself, Dalí (together with his wife Gala) also collected art and there are many different artists on display at the museum too, as well as plenty of new acquisitions.
On top of that Dalí requested that the second floor be dedicated to the work of his friend Antoni Pitxot, who became the director of the Dalí Theatre-Museum, and vice-president of the Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation and other museums during the years after Dalí died.
This famous place itself became what is now the largest surrealist object in not just Spain but the entire world. From the outside, it does look totally bizarre. The first thing you notice about the place are hundreds of giant eggs topping medieval castle-like walls, topped with a large dome.
The building’s walls are covered in artistic little dimples which, at a close glance, reveal themselves to be cast in the shape of thousands of loaves of bread. Together with the eggs and the bread-adorned walls, as you approach you may already start to feel like you’re in a dream. But the Salvador Dalí museum inside is just as weird and wonderful as the outside.
Another cool fact – did you know that Salvador Dalí’s last resting place is here? He is buried in a crypt below the building’s large emblematic dome, under the part that used to be the old theater's former stage floor.
Mae West room
It’s no secret that Dalí had a bit of an obsession with Mae West – an American actress and global sex symbol. She featured in or inspired several of his paintings and pieces throughout his life, including his famous painting called The Face Of Mae West, and the iconic sofa in the shape of her lips, both designed in the 30s.
The Spanish artist’s museum dedicates another entire room to her – the Mae West Room, which is a sculptural installation based on these original works. It’s a typical example of surrealism – a room in the shape of Mae West’s face!
Salvador Dalí jewelry museum
There's also another exhibition including Salvador Dalí's jewelry at the Dalí Theatre-Museum, which we attended as well. Besides 39 pieces of jewelry, there were also drawings, paintings, and works of art with the design of the jewelry displayed. And there was this cool mirror stairway:
Overall we spent about two hours at the Dalí Museum, Spain. It was amazing to see this huge collection on location in his home region whose culture and landscape were obviously a large source of personal inspiration for the artist’s works – the town of Figueres near Spain’s beautiful Costa Brava.
I'm glad that I've finally visited this legendary place, but was a bit disappointed at the time that we didn't get to see any of his major works of art. My fault entirely though. If I had researched the contents of the collection there beforehand, I would have known.
Practical information
Getting there yourself
Address: Gala-Salvador Dalí Square, 5, Figueres
- By car: there's an underground parking right around the corner, but it fills up quickly.
- By train: the museum is a 15-minute walk away from the train station.
- By bus: line Barcelona – Figueres, Line Perpignan – Figueres, bus Vilafant – Figueres or line Barcelona and Maresme Coast – Figueres
Please check the website for up to date information on admission prices and Dali Museum opening hours.
Going with a tour
There are several tours from Barcelona to Figueres and, specifically the Dalí museum.
This small group day tour takes you to the pretty coastal village of Cadaqués, lets you visit the Dalí Museum in Figueres and has you experience the Costa Brava landscapes that inspired the painter.
With this half-day tour, you take the high-speed train from Barcelona to Figueres where you get skip-the-line access to the Dalí Museum.
If you want the full experience, this tour offers just that. You'll visit the museum but also the mausoleum and monument Dalí built for his wife in Púbol. Along the way, your guide will point out the landscapes that inspired the work of Dalí.
Tip: you can also see works by Dalí on display at the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya on Montjuic in Barcelona.
Pin for later
We received to complimentary entrance tickets to the Dalí Museum, Spain, but you can be sure that I'll always give you my honest opinion on everything I write about.
Andrea says
Such an interesting artist…shame the work wasn’t all presented better by the museum.
Sofie says
It really were just a few works that could’ve been presented better. Overall the works were perfectly visible.
Ernest Brown says
WoW! Dali museum, I can’t wait to see it first hand. Nice photos on artifacts, did you use a camera phone?
Sofie says
Thanks Ernest!
I used both my point-and-shoot Canon and my Samsung Galaxy SII.
Gran Canaria Local says
Whilst we’ve made it to Catalonia, we haven’t yet visited this museum. It’s a definite when we’re next in the area. Thanks for reminding us with a typically entertaining post and stunning photos.
Sofie says
Absolutely my pleasure!
Let me know what you think of it once you’ve gotten the chance to visit. I’d love to know:)
Marta Laurent Veciana says
Hi!
Sorry to hear about Your disappointment visiting the museum, specially when it comes to not seeing masterpieces…
Did you maybe miss the Tresure Room? (a tiny room with red velvet walls, opposite to the stairs where the old theatre stage was).
Actually that’s where Dali chose to display his favorites, and some of them are definitely masterpieces: the famous Basket of Bread, the disturbing miniature painting called the Spectre of Sex Appeal, painted with a one-hair-only brush… I’d also consider Galarina and Atomic Leda as masterpieces.
And I’m surprised you weren’t wowed by the extraordinary Naked Gala that Becomes Abraham Lincoln (when seen from the distance or through lenses). And that’s actually one do the pics you posted. Maybe you didn’t notice the visual effect? That’s too bad because it’s sooooo cool.
Also, in one of those corridor dark niches there is another masterpiece I love: Poetry of America (also known as The Cosmic Athletes). But it’s easy to miss because if you check the previous niche and decide that all dark niches are going to be boring, then you probably aren’t going to check out the next one where the Athletes are…
Oh, and in a side room of the Palace of Winds (painted ceiling in one of your pics) there is a great tapestry representing the infamous Persistance of Memory – first time he ever used soft clocks. The original painting is in the Moma, NYC, but it’s super tiny…. I much prefer the tapestry here.
Maybe you need to give the museum a second chance, but go with someone that can reveal the secrets of the museum for you (or get a guidebook, but it’s not as much fun as a real person…)
Love,
Marta
Sofie says
Hey Marta,
Thanks for your comment.
I can see you’re passionate about Dalí’s work.
Maybe I should visit with you next time?:)
I can assure you that I had a great time at the Dalí Museum. I found it very interesting and I would definitely recommend it to anyone visiting the area.
I’ve only made one small comment saying that I thought some works in the dark niches weren’t that well presented, yet you’re the second person to focus on that one comment and from there conclude that I didn’t like the museum, which isn’t true at all and which I’ve never said.
My post didn’t go into that much details about the works, that’s true, and you clearly know a lot more about them than I do, but to be honest it bugs me a bit that you assume that I missed stuff, found stuff boring and skipped other stuff. That you think these things is probably because I wasn’t elaborate enough in writing about my visit, so the fault’s on me. I just want to assure you that I’ve seen every work at the museum and that I’ve had a great time visiting. One negative comment doesn’t mean that I disliked the entire experience.
Marta says
Hi Sophie!
No worries, it’s OK.
I didn’t see in your post anything that expressed joy about your visit. And that made me sad because it’s such a cool place that it mortifies me that someone doesn’t have a wonderful experience there.
Also I wasn’t trying to make you feel bad about your visit at all. I just wanted to share insights that help people know what to expect and what’s worth paying attention to, so they have a great time there.
I misunderstood you and you misunderstood me. That happens often on written text – we can’t always guess right what’s the real tone of the author.
Oh well! Glad we sorted this out!
Enjoy your day.
Sofie says
Hey Marta,
Thanks for checking back! I appreciate it.
We had some “crommunication”: communication that got crooked:)
You’re absolutely right that it’s not always easy to get someone’s tone from text, but as a writer, I should’ve gotten my point across better.
Might have to do an edit in the future and come to you for some tips:)
Dave Briggs says
The Dali museum is a place I still hope to visit one day. As you mentioned, it is perhaps worth researching a little before I do though. Are there tour guides available there?
Sofie says
Oddly enough there don’t seem to be any guided tours. I can’t find any on the website at least and I haven’t seen any while I was there.
There was this one guy clearly explaining things to two people, but he didn’t wear a badge of the museum or anything. He also spoke something Eastern European so I had no idea what he was talking about:)
You can always hire Marta though:D
Marta Laurent Veciana says
Yes, that’s Dali’s fault lol! He wanted his. Museum to be a huge piece of surrealist art: paintings displayed in no logical order and in the most weird ways, no explanations, no tourguides to help you understand. It was all about to surpise visitors and nake you wonder “why would he do that?”.
So except for a couple do very old-fashioned boxes where in exchange for a coin you can pick up a phone and here some explanations, there isn’t anything else available at the museum.
My tours are expensive because they are private skip-the-line luxury tours starting and ending in Barcelona, but there are more affordable group tours (Google them, but make sure they GUIDE you inside: some only give you tickets to get in and then you are on your own once inside…).
And the museum guidebooks are also quite good >> if you are visiting on your own, it’s a must to buy one before going in.
Marta Laurent Veciana says
Sorry for all the typos: hate the auto-correction function!!!
The Guy says
You may not have seen his major works but it appears that you have seen some fabulous exhibits. There is little doubt that Dali was a very unique and thought provoking creator.
It is great to hear that you made it back and were able to explore. Did your father ever make it back too?
Sofie says
Not yet. He’s too busy exploring the outdoors ;-)
Dana Newman says
oh, wow! What a spectacular place! Especially love those gold statues at the entrance. Very capturing.
Sofie says
They somehow immediately made me think of the Oscars:D
Dominique says
Thank you for your honest assessment of the museum. We will be going there in July, and you have helped us know how to prepare and what to expect.
Sofie says
You’re very welcome!
Sue says
I love the city and the overall vib of the museum. Going in the evening is best without the crowds. The museum in St. Petersburg, Florida hold so many of his masterpieces. The couple was a major supporter of Dalĺ when he was painting. They did a glorious thing in keeping his work public. The museum has gone thru a great renovation.
Sofie says
Happy that you liked it!